With a tight schedule, and having wasted six days awaiting a cruising permit, after our Taveuni diving holiday we only had time for one more 'adventure' in Fiji. Our plan was to head for the northern most part of the Yasawa islands and cruise south to Vuda/Port Denarau where Skyfall would execute a crew change, clear out of Fiji and leave for Vanuatu.
However, as we ran through our jobs list in Savu Savu on Monday, 27th May, it was clear that we needed to leave the following morning to have a chance of getting there before a week of strong south easterlies would kick in. But the distance was anywhere between 130nm and 245nm, depending on how much reef hopping that we were prepared to do! The longer distance was the only 'reef free' option,but we would spend 12 hours in 35 knots of wind. So we took the shortest, more difficult option.
This route included the Nasonisoni passage, a long, narrow gap through Vanua Levu's fringing reef, then a few hours inside the fringing reef dodging bommies before exiting into the Bligh Sea. We hoped to pass the night crossing the Bligh Sea before entering tthe anchorage at dawn.
There were a few issues with this schedule. Firstly, we needed to do the narrow passage at slack water or as the tide started to flow in (to avoid wind aginst tide). Secondly, we needed to be safely into the Bligh Sea before dark and, finally, we needed to lose time, crossing the Bligh Sea very slowly to not arrive before dawn.
It was 23nm to the passage and slack water was at 9.45. We cast off at 06.15 and, with 15-20 knots of wind, made good time despite being close-hauled most of the way. Our timing was perfect and, having located the entrance, furled the genoa, put three reefs in the main so we could sail through slowly(if you hit something at 3knots it is less catastrophic than at 7 knots). The passage is no more than 50m wide and over 1nm long but, fortunately, it was easy to see the reef on both sides. The water swirled a bit at the entrance, but the experience turned out to be drama free.
It was a further 30nm to the Bligh Sea (named after Captain Bligh from Mutiny on the Bounty fame, who sailed across it in a long boat, chased by Fijian cannibals in war canoes). We now had plenty of time so did not need to sail fast. Yet, Skyfall does not know how to sail slowly if there is any wind. We were through and into open water by 14.00.
Which was problematic. We now had to pass 16 hours until dawn with only 64nm before the next reefs and dangers. So we dropped all the sails and trailed lines to slow down. There is a 'squeeze' zone beween the two main Fijian islands and the 15-20 knots of the morning soon increased to 20-30 knots. But our plan worked and dawn broke to reveal Yasawa island about 4nm ahead of us.
We spent the morning recovering. Drifting downwind without sails was surprisingly rolly (given that the Bligh Sea is surrounded by reefs) and nobody had had much sleep. But, that afternoon we went ashore to explore.
The locals were friendly enough. We visited the small school to offer some colouring books and crayons. The kids were practising their performance for a national day of celebration in honour of their leader.
We had got to shelter just in time. That night, the wind ripped through the anchorage and the wind generator worked so hard that the batteries were full the next morning. Despite the wind, the next morning we decided to move on down the island chain, broad reaching with furled genoa in the lee of the islands.
Our second anchorage was at the Blue Lagoon resort. This anchorage offers superb protection, being surrounded by reefs on nearly all sides. The flip side of this is that careful navigation is required to enter. We recently discovered an easy way to navigate with satellite images using the noforeignland app. Provided you have an internet connection (easy in Fiji), you can plot your progress realtime on top of the latest NASA satellite images.
Unfortunately, the resort was not cruiser friendly and a 'day pass' was needed to order a drink at the bar. In addition, the snorkelling close to shore was not very interesting..
Our third anchorage was the actual 'Blue Lagoon', with the Nanuya resort, which was just around the corner. Entry again required careful attention to miss rocks and reefs but the anchorage has sand with good holding and excellent protection. One attraction is a walk to Lo's tea house on the opposite side of the island which purportedly makes the best doughnuts in Fiji. They were nice enough but the walk itself was my highlight. Land crabs were everywhere.
The next stop was an anchorage just south of Naviti island. There are several coral heads giving excellent snorkelling. But the real attraction is the pass just south of Naviti which, in June and July, is full of Manta rays. You just snorkel and watch the rays swim past underneath you.
We were now sufficiently far south to be in the wind shadow of the main island in Fiji so our next sail, to Waya Island, was very gentle.We ate dinner in the Octopus resort and that meal was easily our best food in Fiji. Afterwards, the local church choir turned up to sing hymns for us (it was Sunday) - see top photo.
On the approach I had noticed how much Waya reminded me of the Marquesas Islands, with several volcanic peaks. The next day, Denise and I set off to get to the top of the highest one. We needed a guide (way to pay the local village) and he was actually needed to help us over the last 50m of ascent using fixed ropes. But the view from the top made it worthwhile.
Waya actually has two bays on the west coast. The Octopus resort is in Nalauwaki Bay, the more northerly one. We noticed friends Todd and Susan (SV Freya) were anchored a few miles further south near Yamata. So, after the hike, we motored south to join them. We had a very enjoyable evening aboard Freya and demolished Todd's supply of delicious, home-made houmus.
Our final stop before heading to Vuda was Musket cove. Strictly speaking, it is not in the Yasawa island group but, with a name like that, we had to visit. The anchorage was again perfectly protected by reefs and I used the opportunity to scrape barnacles off Skyfall before the upcoming passage to Vanuatu. Generally (and compared to Savu Savu or Taveuni), the Yasawa islands were too 'touristy' for our taste. Musket Cove is the ultimate in this with high density tourism and average food served at European prices. We were the only boat in the first anchorage in the north, saw two or three in the next ones, but Musket Cove had over forty cruisers.
In conclusion, although there were some highlights from the Yasawa group, we were too spoilt in Taveuni to regard this as a 'must see' destination. Diving was rather expensive. The locals have become so accustomed to charging 'tourist prices' and adding levies for everything, that it detracts from the beauty of the islands.
Once in Vuda, Paul and Denise left the boat and Skyfall's short exploration of Fiji was over (see map below).
I welcomed Ru, a Kiwi who had signed on to help me sail the boat to Vanuatu and on to Indonesia. We left Fiji on June 12th, but more of that next time.
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