North Atlantic: Horta and sailing to France

Horta is the primary intermediate destination for yachts crossing from the Caribbean to Europe. Around 1500 boats stop here in May and June, providing a logistical nightmare for the relatively small harbour and marina.

Boats rafting three abreast along the harbour wall in Horta (note graffiti on the dock)

Arriving on 19th May, even if slightly before the busiest period, the place was buzzing. Every marina berth was taken and yachts were rafted up 'three deep' on both sides of the (inner) harbour wall. Arrivals have to anchor in the outer harbour, clear in and then wait for a berth to come free. (in our case a few hours). Sailors were everywhere and there was no shortage of 'watering holes' where stories of the crossing could be recounted.

In all of the ports on the Azores, graffiti is actively encouraged and it has become a tradition for sailors to paint a souvenir on the ground or harbour wall.

The Skyfall graffiti from 2022 in Angra do Heroismo, Terceira

We had done this when I was here the last time with Chris, my brother-in-law, who has rather stronger artistic tendencies than I do. He let the 'secret agent' aspect of the boat's name, together with the Gunfleet logo (a cannon) inspire his design. Unfortunately, this time the week flew by and we never got round to participating further in the tradition.

Horta waterfront

We did enjoy wandering around the town and exploring all the different cafes or 'pastelarias'. In Britain, a 'pub crawl' is sometimes on the agenda. Here, stopping off for a coffee and patisserie every few hundred metres would be more appropriate. Each offers a range of cakes, savouries and sandwiches, all at bargain prices (e.g. 3 coffees, 2 orange juices, two sandwiches and a cake for under ten euros!).

It was not hard to find Portuguese 'blue tiles' around Horta

Like most of Portugal, the town has a special charm. There are classic Portuguese blue tiles to be found on corners and in churches, and it was clear that money was being spent to renovate and try to improve the place. And, as for most of Portugal, what had been done was just a 'drop in the ocean' compared to what would be needed to complete the job!

Sign in barber shop window

Which takes nothing away from the charm of the place. The people are so friendly and welcoming and it has a sort of 'rough honesty' which sets you quickly at ease.

That 'honesty' was apparent in a sign I saw in a barber's shop window. He was clear who he wanted as clients!

Volcano on Pico as seen from Horta

The Azores are volcanic islands: not that we could notice for the first five days. It rained with poor visibility every day. Finally the weather improved and we were treated to a view of the volcano on Pico, the neighbouring island.

Out for a bike ride around the island

We decided to tour the island on mountain bikes. Remember that it is a volcanic island (everything up or down all the time) and Martin is Swiss and fit. So I was a little apprehensive at first as to how much I might have to suffer. But it was Martin who suggested renting e-bikes. I started to feel more at ease as I, personally, have never felt the need for the bit of assistance that they can provide. Initially I considered letting Martin take an e-bike and I would limit myself to conventional pedal power. Fortunately, I thought better of it. It turned out that the only reason Martin goes for e-power is so that he can fly around the island at high speed. I just about managed to keep up but, after 50-60km, including the track that runs up and down across the middle of the island, I learned I had been right to be apprehensive!

Otherwise, our stay was relaxing, allowing us to warm up after the crossing, rest and eat well. We also had to fix things but we took our time, ticking the items off one by one. Our top priority was the furler. That took most of a day given we had to slacken all the rigging to release the forestay and still ensure the mast did not fall down. I had booked a rigger (as a backup) but, by the time he got there late afternoon, it was all done. He was most impressed. The second priority was the autopilot. Actually, I had resigned myself to not having an autopilot until we got to Brest, and that I would need to invest in a new hydraulic RAM (the bit which actually 'pushes' the rudder under control from the autopilot computer). Fortunately, in Horta we found someone who knew about these things..

The key piece of information was that B&G (and Raymarine) do not manufacture their own hydraulic RAMs. They simply put a badge on a product from a third party product (Hypro). The B&G manual contains a statement, " The hydraulic RAM is a sealed unit and does not require maintenance". By contrast, the Hypro website had excellent information (and videos) on how the RAM should be maintained, with troubleshooting guides, etc. (I think B&G want the unit to fail so they can sell you a new one). By draining the hydraulic fluid, replacing it and finally bleeding air from the system the problem was solved! After six months of issues this was a huge result.

I also managed to find someone to glue back parts of my teak deck which had started to delaminate and we had a small sail repair done. Generally, the standard of technical support available in Horta was really good, if you were prepared to wait.

Hole where D1 goes through the deck. The fitting was taken out, cleaned and re-fitted

Finally, after the drama with the D1 in the South Atlantic, Skyfall had developed a small leak where the D1 goes through the deck. Whilst the rigging was slack (for the furler) we took this out, cleaned everything up and re-fitted it. The boat was completely 'dry' again. We were now ready to depart, coinciding with a wonderful weather window which appeared on May 26th.

GRIB file showing the high pressure (centre is the blue area indicating no wind) and Skyfall's track for the first two days

A high pressure region had developed east of Horta, extending all the way from the Azores into the Bay of Biscay. By sailing along the northern flank, we would have nice weather and a wind from behind. We could choose how much wind we wanted by where we sailed on the 'flank' of the high. I aimed for the yellow and orange bits (15-20 knots) and only 'lost position', losing optimal wind, for half a day. Otherwise, we had an easy and enjoyable first five days passage, using the twin headsails for most of it.

Going further north, the weather starts to be dominated by the low pressure systems that sweep across the Atlantic, passing south of Ireland before crossing and (usually) drenching the UK. We encountered the first of these on Day 6. However, we knew we would 'fall off the back' of this system, and lose wind whilst we waited for a second low pressure system. This promised to be deeper and would generate stronger winds. It would be our final challenge before we reached the English Channel.

To add to the challenge, PredictWind suggested that this second low pressure system would coincide with our route crossing the famous Bay of Biscay 'shelf' where the sea goes from 4000m deep to 200m in around 5nm. Crossing this shelf in 30+ knots would probably generate a sea state which did not appeal to me. It was time to 'take the shackles off'.

Skyfall can sail fast. Yet, as a cruiser, one typically sails very conservatively to minimise the chance of breakages. In addition, without the autopilot, I had become accustomed to heavily reefing the boat to allow Brian (the Hydrovane) more control. A quick calculation told me that, sailing the boat properly through that first low pressure system, then motoring for a few hours once the wind died, we could cross the shelf under engine whilst there was no wind!

Sunset over the north Atlantic

I had almost forgotten how fast the boat can go and, with the 'shackles off', we put in 185nm in 24 hours, including the last hours in a dying wind. The day was further enhanced by a great sunset (and sunrise the following morning).

We had got to within 45nm of the Biscay shelf before losing wind. The engine went on in the early hours of day 7. After nine hours of motoring, we were past the 'danger zone'. So the engine went off. From here on in, there was no rush. The shackles could go back on!

GRIB file showing low pressure heading SE from Ireland

By evening that second low pressure system was closing in. We put two reefs in just before Martin turned in at 20.00 and I decided to drop and stow the mainsail just before dark.

On Skyfall, we adjust the clocks an hour at a time throughout the passage so we arrive 'in sync' with local time. I admit to being astounded that I was stowing the mainsail in daylight, just before 23.00. The skipper had spent the best part of four years sailing near the equator with sunsets between five and six. Part of the RTW culture is to enjoy sundowners either on board, on the beach or on a yacht club balcony, as a prequel to dinner. In Brittany, you would have to eat dinner, clear up, enjoy the evening, prepare for bed and then, just before slipping under the covers decide, "Let's do sundowners"! Was this the origin of pyjama parties?

From midnight, we sailed under genoa in 25-30 knot winds. However, after the Indian Ocean and the trip to Horta, it was all rather tame!

Skyfall with her new, outsized Red Ensign, approaching the English Channel

Approaching the English Channel, bound for l'Aberwrach in northern Brittany, I started to think about our arrival. After four years my Red Ensign was terribly battered. I had ordered a new one six months earlier but, when I got it, I found I had mixed up cm and inches and I had felt embarrassed to fly such an outsized flag. However, since then, the existing one had deteriorated further and I felt I now had no choice. So the new Ensign saw the light of day for the first time.

Customs officials searching Skyfall

If I had wondered how the French would react to such a display of Britishness, I got my answer on arrival. L'Aberwrach is a small port (we came from the Azores, in the EU so we did not need a port of entry) but there were TWELVE customs officials on the dock waiting for us!

Seven of them decided to come on board and started to pull the boat apart. I am not sure if they were acting on a tip or whether they just objected to the flag. Either way, I know I will get a smaller Ensign for next time!

Enjoying a glass (or three) of draught Belgian beer (Cafe du Port, L'Aberwrach)

Once customs had released us, it was time to find a bar. In principle, my circumnavigation was completed in Martinique. Yet, I really had not felt like celebrating there. Similarly, Horta was nice and the hardest part of the north Atlantic crossing was done. Yet there was still 'unfinished business'. Reaching L'Aberwrach felt different. After sailing from Horta to France, there was nothing left to prove or do. For what remained, I had already sailed the coast multiple times and I had only coastal sailing left. For the first time, I really felt like celebrating.

Or maybe it was just because Cafe du Port had Belgian beer on draft!